Petal Panty

Hook to match selected thread size

For the pattern, you can find a pattern online or purchase one from your local fabric store (McCalls has two nice patterns: M6128 and M5651). Cut out the pieces for the pattern you want to use and trace it on to craft paper. Measure out the seam allowance and cut on the seam allowance for your pattern.

Or, you can take an old pair of panties that you are willing to sacrifice, and cut it at the side seams. Lay the panties out on the craft paper and trace around it. Cut out the pattern.

Once you make your first motif, trace around it on some paper, cut it out, then use the tracing as a template to draw the shape on to your pattern to see how many you will need and where they will be placed/joined.

When joining, place ea motif back to back with the thread on the right. Insert hk into top of petal being joined and join with a sl st.

Each (ea)
Hook (hk)
Loop (lp)
Skip (sk)
Stitch(es) (st / sts)
Yarn Over (yo)

Double Crochet Cluster (dc cl)

Ch 3, *(yo, insert hk into next sc, yo, pull up lp, yo, pull through 2 lps) rep from * twice, yo, pull through all 4 lps on hk, ch 3, sl st into next sc.

Note: If using a fine thread and you would like a larger motif in order to make fewer of them, replace the sc in this round with hdc or dc.

• First dc cl to petal 5 of motif above and to left of current motif
• Four dc cl around
• Last dc cl to petal 6 of motif above and to the right of current motif

• First dc cl to petal 5 of motif above and to left of current motif
• Second dc cl to petlal 4 of motif to left of current motif
• Last dc cl to petal 6 of motif above and to the right of current motif

• First dc cl to petal 5 of motif above and to left of current motif
• Second dc cl to petal 4 of motif to left of current motif
• Fourth dc cl to petal 1 of first motif of round 2
• Last dc cl to petal 6 of motif above and to the right of current motif

After row 4, if the section is going too slow for you, replace the scs with hdcs.

Continue with sc rows and increasing as needed instead of decreasing until you are ready to join the section to the back of the panty.

Place edges of back section of crotch and back of panty together, with working thread on right side and crotch sc section in front, sc first sc of crotch and top of first petal of panty together, ch 3, sc top of second petal to crotch, ch 3, sc in between petals 2 and 3 of same motif, ch 3, sc in center of crotch section, ch 3, sc in between petals 1 and 2 of second motif, ch 3, sc top of petal 2 to crotch, ch 3, sc top of last petal to crotch. Fasten off.

For example, when going around curves, there may be only one free petal at the top. In this case, after the second trc between two motifs, ch 3, sc in top of petal 1, ch 3, trc in between petals 2 and 3, ch 1, trc in between petals 6 and 1 of next motif, etc.

If there are more than two free petals, rep the ch 3, sc in top of petal until you can make the joining trcs.

Ch 5 (beg hdc plus 2 ch), hdc in first ch-3 sp, ch 2, hdc in next sc, *ch 2, hdc in next ch-3 sp, ch 2, hdc in next ch-1 sp, ch 2, hdc in next ch-3 sp, ch 2, hdc in next sc, ch 2, hdc in next ch-3 sp, ch 2, hdc in next sc,* rep from * to * around to crotch area. Do not fasten off.

Join trim thread at top of petal 1, ch 3, sc in top of petal 2, rep from * to * of Round 1 – Motifs of Leg Trim, ending with a ch 3 and joining with a sl st in first sc.

Sl st in first ch-2 sp, sc in same sp, *ch 2, sc in next ch-2 sp,* rep from * to * around ending with a ch 2 and joining with a sl st in first sc.

Finishing …

Weave in ends. Wash and block as needed, especially if using natural threads.

Here is some advice I received from Doris Chan when I asked her for advice on the leg and waist trim. I had already taken into consideration the need for the openings to be a little larger in order for elastic to be added and allow for the piece to be pulled over the hips and thighs. My problem was making sure that the joining sts between motifs would work as I’d started them. (Thank you Doris!) For items such as tops or skirt edges, you won’t need to worry about elasticity but you will need to deal with joining the motifs on the edges.

Chains have no elasticity. You need to introduce elasticity into your edging or it will never work as a garment on a body.

Here are suggestions:

1. Do not expect the initial round of edging to be the perfect edge yet. Do the edging you have been shown (yellow) but let it be looser. Then work additional round or rounds in single crochet, a stitch that has some elasticity and give, adjusting the tension or number of stitches as you go. You might have to do fewer sc inside the curve of the leg, for example.
2. Do the edging you have shown, work a casing for elastic that will hold in the fullness around.
3. Decide ahead of time the exact measurement you need the edging to be. Let’s say your leg opening has to be 18”. Make an elastic foundation to that length (foundation single crochet or similar chainless foundation). Then attach your motif points to the foundation with chain loops and slip stitches, fitting and adjusting skipped foundation stitches as you go.
4. Introduce elasticity by carrying along a strand of fine gauge elastic thread with your edging yarn.

Please note that the elastic listed in the notions section was what Doris recommended to me.